Baking’s New Coke

The more things change, the more they stay the same. Except for flour.
According to The New York Times, The J. M. Smucker Company, bought the White Lily brand a year ago, and is now producing White Lily at two plants in the Midwest, instead of in downtown Knoxville, where it has been milled since 1883.

Maribeth Badertscher, a spokeswoman for the company, said the new White Lily was the result of thorough product testing and promised that customers “won’t know the difference.” But in a blind test for The New York Times, two bakers could immediately tell the old from the new.
Fred W. Sauceman, author of a series of books called The Place Setting: Timeless Tastes of the Mountain South, From Bright Hope to Frog Level, said, “It means something to have been made in the exact same spot for 125 years, and it’s unconscionable not to respect that.”

About David Burn

Co-founder and editor of AdPulp. I wrote my first ad for a political candidate when I was 17 years old. She won her race and I felt the seductive power of advertising for the first time. I worked for seven agencies in five states before launching my own practice in 2009. Today, I am head of brand strategy and creative at Bonehook in Portland, Oregon.


  1. Mr. Saucemen needs to lay off the cooking sherry. Darned near every industry is moving manufacturing to more economical locales—including overseas. Others are simply downsizing out of existence. Sorry, but the average American doesn’t give a shit where their flour is milled and packaged. Even the Pillsbury Doughboy doesn’t care.

  2. what would martha do?
    martha white and red band, that is, with their soft wheat flours.
    My buns are flufflier than your buns.

  3. @Lily White – Perhaps “the average American doesn’t give a shit,” but Southerners who bake do.